Model-form for garment-fitting.



E. VAN DUSEN..

MODEL FORM FOR GARMENT FITTING. APPLICATION FILED JUNE 24, 1909.

Patented N0v.8, 1910.

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E. VANDUSEN. MODEL FORM FOR GARMENT FITTING.

APPLICATION FILED 511N324, 1909. 974,936. Patented Nv.8, 1910.

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MODEL-FORM FOB GARMENT-FITTING.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. 8, 1910.

Application filed June 24, 1909. Serial No. 504,184.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ELIZABETH VAN DUSEN, a citizen of the United States,residing at Los Angeles, California, have invented a new and usefulModel-Form for Garment-Fitting, of which the following is aspecification.

An object of this invention is to provide a form of the character statedthat will accurately represent the shape of the body of the person it isintended to represent and yet be simple, light and portable, andcomparatively inexpensive to construct.

Another object is to provide a form that will, in addition to conformingto the shape of a human body, yield inwardly as garments are fittedthereover, thus simulating more closely the nature of a human body sothat a dressmaker will be enabled to shape garments to fit with the samedegree of nicety as though the person for whom the garment is intendedwere posing.

Among other objects which will hereinafter appear, may be mentioned theprovision of improved means for regulating the thickness ofthe body fromfront to rear, the provision of an improved joint for the elbows, and ofconvenient means for varying the inclination ofthe body.

Referring to the accompanying drawings which illustrate theinvention,Figure 1 is a front view of the form showing the same inposition for use. Fig. 2 is a section thereof on line m of Fig. 1. Fig.3 is a top View of the form. Fig. 4 is a sectional detail of the elbowjoint. Fig. 5 is an enlarged fragmental sectional detail illustrating inperspective the structure of the covering of the form. Fig. 6 is aninterior view of the rear section of the form. Fig. 7 is a like View ofthe front section thereof. Fig. 8 is an enlarged detail in sideelevation of bendable means of connection between certain sections ofthe reinforcing strips of the covering. Fig. 9 is a face view of thestrips shown in Fig. 8. Fig. 10 is an enlarged transverse section online 00 of Fig. 2.

The outer covering 1, composed of cane web, is sewed to a strong innercoat 2 of cloth, desirably a heavy galatea cloth. In constructing thecovering, the cloth portion thereof is first formed into a garmentwhich.

closely fits the body of the person to be represented by the form. Thegarment thus formed is then cut into sections which are laid uponcorresponding sections of cane web and bound thereby along the edges bytape strips 3. After the individual sections are all thus completelyconstructed, they are placed together edge to edge and fastened to eachother along their edges by means of wide tape strips 4 which are sewedthroughout their mid-width to the under side of each contiguous edge ofthe covering by means of overcast stitches 5 (shown in two places inFig. 10). The edges of said strips 4: are left free (as indicated bydotted lines in Fig. 5) so that they may be stitched together bystitches 6 over stiffening strips of spring steel or other resilientmaterial, such of these strips as appear in Fig. 10 being designated bynumerals 7 to 13. The outer stitches 30, best shown in Fig. 5, alsoassist in holding the sections of the covering together. Intermediatestiffening strips let may be added wherever necessary to stiffen thecovering, and be retained in place by cloth strips 15 stitched to theinner side of the covering.

The covering thus constructed and stiffened by the various uprightstrips is formed into main front and rear sections united above theshoulder but spaced apart throughout their length from the arms downwardeach side of lacing 16. A segmental stiffening or selvage strip 17extends along the inner side of the lower edge of the rear section, anda corresponding strip 18 is provided for the front section (see Figs. 6and 7 These strips may be attached to the covering by strips of tapesimilar to the tape 4 already described.

The strips 7 to 13 are each formed in upper and lower sections separatedfrom each other by being longitudinally spaced apart at the waist andthere united by bolting to pieces 19 of soft untempered metal which tendto maintain themselves in any shape to which they may be bent. Thisconstruction makes it possible to give additional inward curvature atthe waist to copy more closely the human figure, and also assists inyieldingly maintaining the strips or sections 7 to 13 in adjustedposition.

By constructing the body of the form of cane web and cloth, thusproviding a relatively flexible wall therefor, the shape of which may bemodified by the combined action of the U-shaped springs and lacing, itis possible to vary the contour of the form to a nicety. and in a moresatisfactory manner than could be done if the wall of the form consistedof an inflexible shell.

The covering of the form is mounted upon a supporting framework whichwill now be described. Said framework consists of front and rearsections corresponding to the main sections of the covering. Eachsection of said framework consists chiefly of a series of resilientsegmental strips extending along the underside of the covering indirections more or less circumferential with respect to the body of theform.

Referring to Fig. 6, the rear or back section of the framework isdesirably provided above the waist with the upper cross-piece 21, middlecross-piece 22 and lower cross-piece 23. The ends of these cross-piecesarebolted to the strips 8. To each end of the crosspiece 21 is fasteneda curved rib 24 the other end of which is fastened below the arm-pit tothe strip 10. Another rib 25 is fastened to the same point and connectsthe crosspiece 22 therewith. Farther down, ribs 26 and 27 correspondingto ribs 24 and 25 extend from cross-pieces 22 and 23 to the side piece10, this arrangement being duplicated on the other side of the form.Ribs 28 connect the ends of the cross-piece 23 with the lower ends ofthe upper sections of the pieces 10.

Below the waist the back section of the form is provided withcross-pieces 31 and 32 from which radiate ribs 33, 34, 35 and 36constructed and arranged on the plan of the upper ribs. Rib 36 isfastened to strips 10 and 17 at their junction.

In Fig. 7 the main front section of the frame-work is shown providedabove the waist with a chest strip or brace 37, a breast strip 38, andstomach strip 39. Ribs 41, 42, 43, 44, and 45 are also provided, theseribs and strips being arranged with respect to the upright strips 11 and12 according to the plan already described for the back of the form.Below the waist the front of the form may be provided with cross-pieces47 and 48 and with the braces 49 the lower ends of which are fastened tothe selvage strip 18 where said strips join the strips 11.

To support the form, a pedestal 49 is provided, in which is mounted astem 50 adjustably supported by the thumb-screw 51. The form is attachedto an upper section 52 of stem 50 by means of the internal downwardlyradiating arms 53 the upper ends of which are fastened to the top of thestem desirably by a single nail or screw 54. The lower ends of thesearms are fastened to the upper portion of the framework, two of thempreferably being bolted to shoulder braces 55, and a third to the uppersection of strip 13 (see Fig. 7).

The lower portion of the form is adjustably connected with thesupporting stem by lower metal section 50 by means of a pipe couplingjoint 62.

Springs 63, desirably strips of steel each bent to a U-shape, arearranged in a vertical series along each side of the form to vary itswidth by operating in opposition to the lacing 16. The ends of saidsprings are bolted to the edge strips 10 and 11, desirably at the pointsthe various ribs are attached to said strips so that a single bolt maysuffice for several pieces at each point of fastening.

Certain internal connections, desirably straps provided with buckles,are employed to assist in regulating the contour of the cover ing. Suchconnections as shown in Fig. 2 may consist of straps 64 provided withbuckles 65. The lower end of said straps are shown in Fig. 6 and theirupper ends in Fig. 7. The upper ends of these straps are attached to thecross-piece 37 and to the end portion of the strips 7 0 which extendupwardly along the under side of the covering of the back portion of theform across the shoulder portion thereof and terminate at the chest.From this point the straps lead to the back portion of the form beingdesirably attached thereto so that shortening the straps brings thecovering down in place across the chest and also assists in contractingthe waist.

The arms are provided at their upper ends with inwardly directed lugs 66which are hooked into eyelets 67 on the shoulder to support the arm.

The stiffening strip 68 (see Fig. 4) of upper section of each arm ispivoted to the strip 69 of the lower section thereof by a bolt 71. Atthe outer curve of the elbow joint the upper section of the arm isprovided with a segmental metallic strip 72, and the other section ofthe arm is provided with a corresponding strip 73. Said strips 72 and 73are inclosed by a pear-shaped metallic loop 74 desirably of spring steelwhich may be fastened to a stiffening strip 75 with which the lowerarm-section is provided. The loop is arranged to cause friction enoughto maintain the arm in adjusted position. Both. ends of the resilientloop 74 are fastened to the same section of the arm, one being placedflatwise upon the other thereby securing double the amount of stiffnessin the spring to what would result if one end only of the spring loopwere made fast at that point. Said spring loop operates by frictionalresistance caused by the loop engaging one section of the arm undertension, to hold the sections of the arm in adjusted position.

The various parts of the framework are detachably held together by shortbolts and thumb-nuts of the character shown in Fig. L.

The arms are provided with triangular cuts 77 where they join the bodyto provide a smooth fit.

The edge strips 10 and 11 are provided with eyelets 78 with which thelacing 16 is connected. Said edge strips are outcurved below the waistand are maintained in the curved position by internal tie strips 7 9fastened to the ends of the lower section of the edge strips as shown inFigs. 1 and 7.

The thickness of the covering and of the strips of the framework isexaggerated in the drawings for clearness of illustration. In Fig. 10,for example, the strip 9 and its tape covering is shown so thick as tomake the brace 34 stand out from the inside of the covering, but it isto be understood that in reality the strips 34 and any strips whichcross each other lie practically snug against the inside of thecovering.

I claim:

1. In a form for garment fitting, a body portion having a frame workprovided with longitudinal strips of resilient metal, said stripsconsisting of upper and lower sections separated from each other bybeing spaced longitudinally apart at the waist line, a section ofrelatively soft more flexible metal uniting said sections at theiradjacent ends, and a covering, said uniting section of metal beingadapted to maintain the portion of the covering extending thereover inany curve to which it may be bent.

2. A model form for garment fitting comprising a covering consisting ofsections spaced apart below the waist and outcurved along the edges nextsaid space, resilient reinforcing strips extending along said edges, andinternal tie-strips connecting upper and lower portions of saidresilient strips to maintain the curve thereof, said resilient stripsconstituting selvage strips to maintain the contour of the edge portionsof the covering of the form.

3. A model form for garment fitting having a relatively flexiblecovering, a resilient strip extending upwardly along the under side ofsaid covering from the back portion of the form across the shoulderportion thereof and terminating at the chest, and a connection fastenedto said strip and leading from the portion of said strip underlying thechest transversely of the form to another part of the form to maintainthe curve of said strip where it underlies the shoulder.

4. In a form for garment fitting a supporting stem within said form, acovering therefor, a plurality of downwardly and outwardly radiatingstrips fastened to said stem, supporting means in the neck portion ofsaid form to permit the same to swing thereon to a limited extent, saidstrips hav ing slotted lower ends, and means at the bottom of said formin substantially the same plane with the covering thereof to engage saidslots, said means being adjustable to different points along the slotsto vary the inclination of the form.

5. A form for garment fitting provided with a joint having hollowsections, a strip of resilient material bent into a loop and having oneof its ends placed flatwise upon the other and both fastened to onesection of the joint, the bent portion of said loop engaging theinterior of the other section of the joint to hold the same yieldinglyin adjusted position.

6. A form for garment fitting having a limb provided with two sections,a pivot pivoting said sections together, said sections being hollowadjacent to said pivot, the wall of said sections being cut away at oneside of the joint to permit flexion of the limb, and a spring bent intoa loop and having its ends brought together and made fast to one of thesections, said loop tending to spring against the side of the jointopposite the cut-away portion thereof to hold the sections of the limbfriction-tight in adjusted position.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses at Los Angeles, in the county of Los Angelesand State of California, this seventeenth day of June 1909.

ELIZABETH VAN DUSEN.

Witnesses:

ALBERT I-I. MERRILL, FLORA H. Foss.

